Time of travel Oct 2018

This Madagascar itinerary 3 weeks includes 13 days of nature exploration via crazy driving with rented 4×4 with driver, 1 week of beach time and a few days of getting from A to B by public transport. 

 

 

Madagascar is massive and the roads are very few, that’s why it can be a logistical nightmare, expecially if you are travelling independenty. You will find that the roads sprout out from Antananarivo (Tana) in all directions like spider legs without viable interconnections, so if you want to see things South and North of Tana you will have to come back to Tana, before proceeding to the new destination.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Driving the scenic RN7, stopping to sample some Malagasy foie gras, in “Coin de Foie Gras” near Behenjy, which was really good! Seb approved.

 

 

 

The landscape is getting more and more dry as we progress further West. Enjoying scenic panoramas of the highlands and authentic villages reflecting the rich local specialties in their architecture.

 

This is also where we learned about the story of “Zebu stealers” that terrorise these lands since ages. Read the full story here.  

 

 

 

A lot of truely 4×4 drive in the dust with resting during the two river crossings on open air ferry.

 

Highlights of the day were the Alley of Baobabs, which is an unmissable site for anyone travelling in Madagascar… standing  close in front of these ancients giants of nature makes you beleive in magic!

 

A little surprise also awaits you in Belo Sur Mer, a tiny town in the middle of nowhere, where you can eat in a Michelin star restaurant, if your budget allows , it was beer only for us 🙂

 

 

 

This was an exhausting and overheated all day visit, which is going to blow your mind! Bring water, sun lotion and a hat, and leave those flip flops home! See dedicated post about Tsingy and how to get there here. 

 

 

 

Driving back and visiting Alley of Baobabs at sunset, for a magic play with the shadows of the trees in the orange sunset.

Though croweded when we visited, the place was truly magical and together with Tsingy park really is worth the long drive.

 

 

 

A long return which provides another opportunity to see the grandiose landscapes of the highlands and villages.

 

 

 

Another very long day of driving, stoping in picturesque villages for food, photos and rest.

 

 

 

 

This is an all day walk in the tall canyons and vast landcapes, spotting scorpios, stick insects, massive spiders, marveling endemic “Elephant foot” plant, and learning about the mystical burial rituals of the malagasy culture

 

Also, bring your swiming suit as you will definitely love the bathing in the beautiful natural pools.

 

 

 

 

A long day of driving, with 1 hour visit Anja park.

 

The park is very small, offering about 3 different walks, between 40 min to 2 hours long.

The 2 hours one costs 80 000 MGA and it is massively overpriced. If we’d do it again, we’d go for the shortest and more reasonably priced walk, as 40 min is really enough to see the ringtail lemurs, which is the main attraction here.

 

 

 

Start early your visit of the park ( we started at 7am) so you can finish it by 2pm and hit the road again to Ambositra.

 

The Ranomafana park is a lemur kingdom, where there is so much life in the trees that our necks were sore at too much looking up! We spotted there 7 types of lemurs, numerous chameleons and geckos. 

 

 

 

Dont miss the night walk starting at 8pm  starting from the hotel Feon’Ny Ala… We have heard of more lucky than us, but we were delighted to spot a couple of mouse lemurs, a very slimy frog and a cute spider during our hour and an half walk in the dark. 

 

 

 

This is a very deeply touching encounter with the enigmatic Indri lemurs, or “Ghosts of the forest”, as their incredibly loud and poignant cry, almost sounding as if the forest itself was crying, gives you goosebumps

 

Listen to the supernatural voice of Indri in a dedicated post.

 

 

 

 

We said here goodbye to our amazing driver Mr. Lai, who used the last of the 13 days we paid for to drive back to Tana.

 

As for us the adventure contibued with a 4 hours drive to the harbour and crossing on El Condor boat to Ile Sainte Marie. From there it is just a 20min tuk tuk ride to the south of the island and finally another 10 min on one of the colorful pirogues to Ile aux Nattes, on the most beautiful beaches on earth! .

 

Do not look for other boats – El Condor is the biggest and most robust boat on the route. The sea is very chopy – believe me, you’ll want to be on the biggest most reliable boat, and that doesn’t mean you are going to keep your lunch!

 

* Sea sick ? here is a hint: Seb ( who had never crossed a sea without wishing to die from extensive throwing up), found a trick to almost enjoy that ride… As soon as you are on the boat, go on the upper deck, at the front and lay down on your LEFT side , and do not leave this position until the end of journey. Not saying it will necesseraly work for you, but it miraculously work for Seb, on the return as well!

 

 

 

 

 

Day 22 and 23 :   El Condor back to main island, night at Toamasina and then all day public bus to Tana

 

Day 24 : Morning flight to Japan.

 

Let us know what you think about this Madagascar 3 weeks itinerary in comments.