6 Sep 2018
We took 2 days to recover after the 5 days trekking Rwenzori mountains, and started to make our way South: Kasese to Kihihi with a stop for a safari in Ishasha region of the Queen Elizabeth National Park. Using local shared taxi, private driver for the safari and boda-boda (motobikes) we arrived in Kihihi. Worth mentioning the final link – when we took 2 boda-bodas for 40min ride to the final destination of the day. The guys drove us via dirt roads through the smallest villages, where we created a lot of noise. The streets were full of people, kids were screaming and waving, girls and women where laughing hard when seeing how I sit the moto like a man (women ride moto with both legs on same side), so we created a wave of amusement as we went.
Sobu Motel where we stayed offered a 3 hours guided walk in the village, so we took it, and what a great move it was.
Life in the village is driven by the seasons and work in the field. When Rainy season starts, all villagers are in the field, planting, but the dry season is a “lazy” one – once you harvested your crops – there is pretty much nothing left to do, so people spend time hanging out by their houses or in local bars. Our guide Nelson was apologetic that we would not see many people on the streets, as it is planting time now, so everyone is busy. However we still have seen a lot of activity.
Main food of the region includes corn, cassava, matooke (green savoury banana), goat meat, chicken, eggs. People not so much into beef, it is considered a hard meat, as the cows that go for meat are usually very old. So goat is the preferred protein.
Village itself is amazing, it could be featured in a Disney cartoon. Reach vegetation, abundance of flowers, tidy gardens and houses, and the most amazing thing – the most laid back, relaxed, smiley and welcoming people. Women wearing bright vibrant colours just to match the overall mood of the place, kids are laughing and getting so excited if they get you to wave at them. Time after time you can see a 13-15 years old boy riding a wooden bicycle loaded with sacks of stuff – this is to transport their crops to the market, our guide explained.
At some point we entered a “local bar”, that because of the time of the day was empty. Local bar is an important social place, after day in the field locals would come here to exchange news, debate about politics, have a conversation while enjoying a glass of homemade banana spirit. It reminded me homemade ukrainian vodka, very strong and transparent. It is the only drink you can buy here.
After the bar we visited a sacred tree of the local tribe. It is the oldest tree in the region, no one knows how old it is but generations and generations would come here to pray to the gods of nature. It is a gigantic and truly magnificent tree overlooking the valley and can be seen from many many miles away. After the valley you can see the ridge of hills that belong to DR Congo.
The market is full of colours. Here apart from usual matooke, corn and beans you see more vegetables, like tomatoes, onions and cabbages.
Taking lunch in a local restaurant and stopping for a cup of locally grown coffee was another immersion and helped to complete the picture of Ugandan day to day life.
I fell in love with Ugandans, their broad smiles, closeness to nature and kind and relaxed attitude to life.